Pattern Making With PatternMaker

HomeUnits Unit 1: Getting Started

1.4 Dart Pivot

One of the basic flat pattern making techniques involves pivoting the bust dart around the bust apex.
We will begin with the dart at the bust. . .
and move it to the waist.
This is what the bust dart pattern looks like.
Here is the waist dart pattern.
  • Open the basic bodice.
  • Use the bodice you created in section 1.2 or run a new macro.

Click here to download a sample PatternMaker bodice sloper to use for this tutorial.

Note: If you find that the commands do not seem to work, or the menu is grayed out, it means you have not completed the previous command. Press the Escape key or left click in the drawing area to cancel the previous command.

 

  • Draw the cut line.
  • Go to the Draw menu and select line. Or select the line icon in the toolbar.
  • Left click at the point you wish to start your line. Then move the cursor (do not drag) to the point where you want your line to end and left click again.
  • Make sure that your line goes past the line that forms the shape you are going to cut. You can use the Zoom icon or press F2 to zoom in on the dart apex.

Note: The cut line in the drawing above is shown in red for illustration purposes only. The line on your screen will appear in the layer color you have selected.

  • Cut along the new dart line.
  • Go to Edit and select Cut or use the icon.
  • The command line will ask you to select an object to be cut. Left click on the pattern piece outline. Then right click somewhere else (not on the pattern outline) to indicate you are done selecting your pieces.
  • Then the command line will ask you to select an object to cut with. Left click on the line you drew and then right click (somewhere other than the line) to indicate you have selected your object.
  • The command line will tell you that it is "done" although your figure will not look different because the pieces you cut apart are still together.
  • Show Vertices
  • The show vertex command is useful because it lets you see the exact points where line segments begin and end.
  • Go to the View menu and select Points. Select Show Vertex. The keyboard shortcut for this command is F5.
  • Rotate pattern.
  • Go to Edit and select Rotate or use the icon. Select the lower right corner of the pattern (left click and then right click.)
  • The command line will ask you to select a vertex to rotate your piece around. Left click on the bust apex. (You can rotate around any point you select).
  • Move the cursor away from the rotation point. You will notice a "handle" appears. The command line will ask you to establish a base line. That is what the "handle" is. I line up the base line with one of the edges of the pattern piece, but you can line it up anywhere.
  • Left click and rotate your piece as shown in the animation. Left click when you are finished.

NOTE: Do not hold the mouse button down as you move the base line to close the dart.

  • Erase the cut line.
  • Use the Erase icon or go to Edit and select Erase. Left click on the cut line and then right click to indicate you have made your choice.
  • If you accidentally click the wrong element, use the Undo icon or go to Edit and select Undo. The keyboard shortcut for the Undo tool is Cntrl + Z.
  • Join the pattern pieces together.
  • Use the Zoom tool to make sure that the two pattern pieces overlap slightly at the old bust dart lines.
  • Go to Edit and select Join or use the icon.
  • The command line will ask you to select the first object to join. Left click on either of the pattern pieces. Then right click anywhere to indicate you have made your choice.
  • The command line will ask you to select the second object to join. Left click on the remaining pattern piece and then right click to indicate you have made your selection.
  • The command line will say "Done" although your pattern will not look different.
  • Remove the old dart lines.
  • The pattern can be used as it is now. Or you can clean it up by deleting the old side dart lines.
  • Go to the Point menu and select Delete Segment. Do not use the Erase tool for this as you will erase the entire pattern.
  • Left click and then right click to delete each of the line segments.

Congratulations! You have learned the dart pivot technique as well as some of PatternMaker's tools and commands.

View the CD tutorial outline

     
Copyright © 2004 by Jennifer Smith